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On October 20th I had the honor to be a guest at two Slow Food events in Torino, Italy; the Salone di Gusto, which is a large exposition showcasing the best in Italian food, and Terra Madre, a conference of 5,000 international artisan producers, billed as a "World Meeting of Food Communities". I had almost no expectations and perhaps a few doubts about leaving my young business at such a crucial time but I left these events with the feeling that the control of food production has got to leave the hands of multinational corporations and laboratories and return to the artisan growers with dirty shoes and a local perspective.

Terra Madre was a fascinating mix of one big assembly and various smaller workshops. Some of the speakers were inspiring and just sitting in the great hall and looking around at the international mix was overwhelming. I got to meet "bean people" from Africa, Europe and all over Latin America. I discovered a Mexican seed saving project, met a cooperative of women who produce "honey" from the agave plant and a great couple with a large nursery over in Sebastapol that maybe working with me next year to get my herb seedlings started. I got to see Deborah Madison for the first time since she was in St. Helena last year filming her TV pilot, and she in turn introduced me to Rick Bayless. Connections like this continued throughout the event.

Slow Food 2004 Slow Food 2004

Slow Food 2004

The Terra Madre conference
Clockwise from top left: Delegates watch a presentation; Delegates with an impromptu song; The big assembly; With Laddie and Chris from Long Meadow Ranch; Pretending to be studious at an olive oil workshop with Laddie

Slow Food 2004
Slow Food 2004

After the day's meetings and assemblies, we would drive to our respective guest homes. I was with about 30 other delegates staying in the small village of Dogliani, famous mostly for its Dolcetto wine and Piemontese cuisine. The five or six families who were hosting delegates shared cooking duties for the event and every evening was a multi-course meal for 30 to 50! These dinners might just be the highlight of the trip for me. My hosts, the Rolfo family, were gracious and sweet and I can't wait for them to come visit me in Napa. By the last dinner (which included the mayor!), it was a mutual love fest between the delegates and our hosts, with loads of bad toasts, jokes and wine.

Slow Food 2004 Slow Food 2004
Slow Food 2004 Slow Food 2004
Dogliani
Clockwise from top left: Dinner in the cooperative wine shop in Dogliani; another dinner shot; John Paul making a toast; The Rolfo family house; with Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms
Slow Food 2004


The Salone di Gusto is a large exposition of the best of the best in Italian food. I finally met up with Laddie and Chris from Long Meadow Ranch and we went together. Chris made a beeline for the wine while I enjoyed the jaw-dropping number of bean producers. I especially enjoyed meeting the family from Cuneo (near where we were) that had their particular variety of cranberry bean, which I'll be growing out next spring. We also met up with John Williams of Frog's Leap Winery who treated us to some swell oysters.

Slow Food 2004 Slow Food 2004
Salone di Gusto
Clockwise from top left: 2 bags full of beans; wheels of cheese; bean grower from Cuneo; John (center) from Frog's Leap with Laddie and Chris from Long Meadow Ranch, Salone di Gusto hall; demonstration from Liguria
Slow Food 2004
Slow Food 2004 Slow Food 2004
Slow Food 2004  

The whole thing went by too fast but to say it was worthwhile is an understatement. I think a lot of us have a new commitment to what we're doing and a new awareness as to how bad the food situation in the world is going to get if we don't take action soon.

I'd like to thank the local Napa Valley convivium of Slow Food for allowing me this opportunity. I only wish I could express how much this meeting affected me and I only hope it reflects in the way I do business and the Rancho Gordo food you eat.

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