A recent trip to Mexico sent me to Tlaxcala, not far from Mexico City, looking for masks. I don't have a thing for masks in general, but I do love a particular style of 1940s-looking ones and it turns out they're from Tlaxcala.

Not far is the town of Humantla and in town is the Hacienda Soltapec. It's apparently where a Maria Felix-Pedro Amrandariz film was made and you can stay there for very little money.

Of course the highlight for me was the food. We only had one meal there but the enfrijoladas were great. If you don't know this dish, it's just like an enchilada but pureed beans replace the chiles in the sauce. Often they come stuffed with simple, shredded chicken.

The hacienda itself is grand but the property seems cut in half so a very busy public road comes within feet of the entrance, never really letting you relax about the fantasy of hacienda living. But it's really a song stay there and while it's not a destination, I'd go back if I were in the area.