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When Corn Is King


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When I used to work the farmers markets, the corn growers were always very popular but they would tell me it was a loss leader. People expect it to be cheap and it's not the easiest crop to grow, especially if you're growing a more vulnerable heirloom variety. I'm at peace with more expensive corn, especially if it's really good. There's little better than corn-on-the-cob as far as I'm concerned and a squeeze of lime and a dash of Rancho Gordo Stardust powder is a fine alternative to butter. But after a lot of cobs, you start looking for something else to do corn. I shucked several ears of corn and sauteed the kernels in garlic and olive oil with some fresh epazote. Corn and epazote is a natural but as I often say, if you can't find it fresh, it's better to skip it and use parsley instead. Above, I added the corn to some cooked garbanzo beans and mushrooms made in the style of Paula Wolfert. I tossed this with tagliatelle and it was terrific. The same corn mixture was later tossed with more garbanzos and some roasted red peppers and leftover Baia Pasta spelt pasta for a fine salad. So I think that garbanzos + corn + pasta is a winning combination.

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