For so many, a salad is mixed greens and boring raw vegetables. More and more, I love salads without any lettuce. I want crunch and texture—bean salads with celery, onions, radishes, or carrots are wonderful. There's the satisfying crunch of the vegetables and the indulgent-feeling creaminess of the beans. It's a winning combination.

I love acidic salad dressings. If you're unsure, start with the juice of half a lemon and test. That may be enough, but the idea was a lemony dressing for the rich beans. If you don't eat anchovies, you could try subsisting miso paste.   — Steve

• 2 cups cooked Santa Maria Pinquito beans (or King City Pinks or Buckeyes), well drained
• 3 stalks of celery, chopped into bite-sized pieces
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 1 anchovy filet
• 1 teaspoon fresh or dried thyme (or to taste)
• 1 garlic clove
• Salt
• Pepper

Serves 2 to 4

1. In a serving bowl, toss the cooked beans with the chopped celery.
2. In a food processor, blender, or mortar, add the rest of the ingredients and blend well. If using a mortar and pestle, start with the salt and garlic and make a paste. Add the anchovy and continue pounding until the anchovy is incorporated into the paste. Add the lemon, thyme, and pepper and continue pounding gently until emulsified.
3. Toss the bean mixture with the dressing. Taste and adjust the seasonings, then serve.